Why a Hurtigruten cruise is different

A Hurtigruten cruise is not a classic cruise, but a mixture of liner service, sea voyage and expedition route. The ships have been connecting the Norwegian coast every day since 1893, calling at more than 30 ports between Bergen and Kirkenes on the classic mail ship route. To this day, Hurtigruten ships are part of Norway’s infrastructure: they transport passengers, mail and freight and are an important means of transportation for many coastal towns.

On our trip from Kirkenes to Bergen on board the MS Nordkapp, it quickly became clear: this is not about being entertained, but about experiencing Norway up close.

The MS Nordkapp: a classic Hurtigruten ship

The MS Nordkapp from Hurtigruten is a classic ship on the legendary mail ship route from Kirkenes to Bergen. But what you learn very quickly on a Hurtigruten voyage is that you don’t just live in the ship, you live with the sea. The MS Nordkapp is not a floating resort that conceals every movement. You can feel the swell, sometimes gently swaying, sometimes much stronger. And that is precisely what makes it so appealing. You always know that you are traveling along one of the wildest and most beautiful coasts in Europe.

The MS Nordkapp was built in 1996 and is therefore one of the classic ships in the Hurtigruten fleet. Like many ships of this generation, it was extensively modernized in 2016, with technology, cabins and public areas being adapted to today’s standards without losing its functional, maritime character.

With a length of around 123 meters and space for around 590 passengers, the MS Nordkapp is significantly smaller than modern ocean cruise ships. It is precisely this size that makes it possible to call at smaller ports and sail very close to the coast.

At the heart of this ship, on deck 5, is a retreat that repeatedly gave us a feeling of home, comfort and Norwegian serenity during our journey: the Arctic Superior outside cabin. The Arctic Superior outside cabins are among the most popular outside cabins on board: they are larger and more comfortable than the standard cabins, are located on the middle to upper decks and offer natural light and views of the open sea or Norwegian coastal landscapes. This is a clear plus point on this route.

The Arctic outside cabin Superior

Our Arctic outside cabin Superior 507 on deck 5 is more than just a retreat: it is our base camp. Jackets, hats and scarves are often kept close at hand or put on straight away. Because something is always happening outside. A light, a coastline, suddenly appearing mountains and then it’s time to get out on deck. Many passengers do the same: they stay “half-dressed” so that they can go outside at any time. Hurtigruten is not a journey where you dress up once and then sit in the theater. It’s a voyage where you constantly oscillate between inside and outside, between warmth and Arctic air.

The cabin is functional and well-designed, but you should be aware that space is limited. The passageway is very narrow, especially at the foot of the bed, so you can only move around there to a limited extent. For us, this was the biggest disadvantage of the cabin, especially if you want to go to the toilet at night (and there is also swell), get ready at the same time or have your luggage open.

 

For us, it is very important to have at least one window in the cabin. The Arctic Superior outside cabin also has its own bathroom with shower and toilet, a cozy double bed and a small space for writing postcards. All in all, it’s a good place to retreat to after long days of exploring.

Our favorite place

What makes this cabin particularly pleasant is not only the location above the water, but also the perfect location on board. Far away from the hustle and bustle on board and yet right in the middle of the Hurtigruten experience. On deck 5, just a few meters from our cabin, there is a door to the outside with direct access to the viewing deck at the bow. For us, the viewing deck at the bow is the most beautiful place on board and it is simply wonderful to be there in just a few minutes.

Hurtigruten is different from other cruises

Many people think of huge floating resorts with pools, Broadway shows and various sports activities on board when they hear the word “cruise”. The Hurtigruten cruise is different: it is a mixture of classic cruising, expedition feeling and authentic Norwegian mail ship tradition.

1. No classic “hotel-at-sea” cruise style

On Hurtigruten, the ships are both passenger and mail ships: they serve very real, often small Norwegian ports along the coast, bring people, goods and mail from place to place and have been part of the Norwegian transportation network since the 19th century.

This characterizes the entire atmosphere on board a Hurtigruten cruise. There is no artificially created vacation world here, but a functioning everyday life at sea. Commuters go ashore in the morning, fishermen board, containers are loaded and right in the middle of it all are the travelers who want to experience the real Norway. You quickly realize: Hurtigruten does not sail for tourists, but with them. The ship is a means of transportation, meeting point and observation platform all in one. Those who get involved are not entertained, but become part of a journey that has been going on for generations.

2. Daily rhythm according to nature and route

Instead of evening shows or stage entertainment, the day is dominated by shore excursions, natural light shows and coastal landscapes. The ship docks several times a day, sometimes only briefly, sometimes longer, and passengers disembark to discover cities, fjords or Arctic landscapes.

The nights are particularly impressive. While classic cruises are quiet in the evenings, a second, silent highlight often begins on Hurtigruten. Especially in the winter months, but also in spring and fall, people stand on deck at night in thick jackets, silently looking up at the sky. Everyone is hoping for this moment: the Northern Lights.

It is not unusual for someone to walk through the corridors in the middle of the night after the announcement in the cabin that auroras have been spotted. The announcement can of course be activated voluntarily. Then cabin doors open, footsteps echo softly across the deck, thermos flasks are shared. Nobody complains about the cold. Because what you see makes up for everything. These shared, wordless moments are among the most intense experiences on board.

3. Expedition team & regional studies included

A dedicated expedition team accompanies the journey on a Hurtigruten cruise: in lectures, on deck briefings or during talks, they provide background knowledge on geology, wildlife, Norwegian culture or natural phenomena such as the Northern Lights or the midnight sun.

It never remains dry or academic. It is often about observations that you have just made yourself: a sea eagle on the horizon, special rock formations or last night’s aurora borealis. The crew explains, classifies, arouses curiosity. This knowledge accompanies you throughout the entire journey. You don’t just see landscapes, you understand them a little better. And that changes your perspective. Every stretch of coast takes on depth, every announcement takes on meaning.

We also came across the “Seven Sisters”(Syv Søstre) on the Helgeland coast in Nordland. It is a famous mountain range consisting of seven striking peaks which, according to legend, are petrified troll virgins.

4. Focus on coastal landscape instead of entertainment

On a Hurtigruten cruise, the focus is on scenery, nature and local culture. There are no large pools or shows, but there is direct access to the North Atlantic landscape, rock faces, waterfalls and fishing villages, which are rarely seen from a classic cruise ship. Relaxation is also possible on board Hurtigruten. There are whirlpools, saunas and a well-equipped fitness room on board.

Instead of laser shows, dance performances or captain’s dinners, Hurtigruten offers something different. You experience real maritime rituals during the cruise. One of the most famous is the crossing of the Arctic Circle. When the ship passes this invisible line, passengers gather on deck, whatever the weather. People explain, celebrate, laugh and take photos. You can drink cod liver oil and jump into the air together as you cross. You can feel that this is a moment that is part of the journey.

Such events structure the days on board. They give the route meaning and make it clear that you are not simply moving from port to port, but are part of a centuries-old sea voyage.

5. Cuisine and atmosphere

The “Coastal Kitchen” dominates on board: menus with Nordic flavors, local ingredients and seasonal specialties. While you eat, the coast glides by.

Eating is an important part of everyday travel life. You sit in the restaurant while fjords, islands and coastlines pass by outside. Conversations become quieter, glances wander to the window, sometimes cutlery is left lying around for a moment. Here, too, everything adapts to the journey: there are no set gala evenings and no dress code. Instead, there is a relaxed, calm atmosphere in which enjoyment and landscape naturally go hand in hand.

Every evening on board a Hurtigruten cruise, a different three-course menu is served, thematically based on the current stage of the route. What’s particularly nice is that the left-hand side of the menu tells the story of the region, its culinary traditions and cultural influences, while the right-hand side shows the dishes to choose from. In this way, eating becomes a quiet form of travel.

Kirkenes, for example, located close to the border with Finland and Russia, is characterized by a multicultural population and this is reflected on the plate. The cuisine is rustic, Nordic and down-to-earth: lots of fish, game, berries and herbs. This evening’s menu includes borscht, herring and reindeer.

For starters, there is Sami bread with herring, a carrot tart or Russian borscht. For the main course, you can choose between Finnmark reindeer, cod or potato cake. The final course is Russian honey cake, raspberry mousse, ice cream or cheese. These are dishes that not only fill you up, but also tell stories of regions, people and a coast that you can not only see, but also taste.

5 reasons why you should take a Hurtigruten cruise

1. Pure natural beauty
   From the Arctic landscape near Kirkenes to the rugged fjords and the urban colors of Bergen. Every mile at sea is a panorama in itself. The swell, wind and salty air are all part of the experience, because this voyage is not a filtered experience. Even on board, you stay dressed up, always ready for the next view outside.
2. Authentic Norwegian experience
   The ship and the voyage are a piece of Norwegian identity: auroras, silence and shared moments on deck are all unforgettable. The Nordic food is also part of this experience. The dishes tell of the region, of fishing, hunting, berries and herbs, of simplicity and quality. Everything comes together to create a travel experience that will live long in the memory.
3. Daily discoveries
   With regular calls at over 30 ports, this voyage offers new impressions every day. Be it a short walk through a fishing village, a visit to the Hurtigruten Museum or a look into a remote bay. Sometimes all you need to do is watch the mail ship dock and cast off. If you want to read more about our stop in Hammerfest, you can find the article here.
4. The Arctic Superior outside cabin as an island of peace
   After long days full of impressions, the cabin on deck 5 is a little retreat: warm, quiet, with a view and ideal for taking a deep breath between two decks.
5. Expedition on board
   Lectures, deck viewings and discussions with guides are the order of the day. This trip is not just sightseeing, but real learning and experiencing. Crossing the Arctic Circle is not just a part of the program, but a shared experience.