The YouDinner on board the nickoSPIRIT

The YouDinner concept is not a classic restaurant format in Germany, but a culinary club that deliberately operates outside of fixed gastronomic locations. Originally developed as a series of events, YouDinner brings together top chefs and guests at changing locations. The focus is not on the location, but on the curated experience of an evening that combines culinary delights, exchange and staging.

The collaboration with nicko cruises has transferred this concept to the river. On board the nickoSPIRIT, a format has been created that is somewhere between a dinner event and a short trip with a clear focus on the cuisine. The ship does not serve as a classic cruise product, but as a stage for a gastronomic experience. It is precisely for this special experience that we board the nickoSPIRIT for one night.

The course of the event cruise with YouDinner

Embarkation on board the nickoSPIRIT takes place in the afternoon between 4 and 5 p.m. in Cologne, just a few minutes’ walk from the main railway station. The central location is very practical. Shortly after boarding, the nickoSPIRIT sets sail for an evening cruise on the Rhine. Unlike on longer cruises, there is a little less time for traditional orientation phases, as the program is clearly geared towards the evening.

The cabins can be occupied immediately. In our case, it is an outside cabin on deck 3 (cabin 316), equipped with a retractable panoramic window. The cabin has a very modern design with earthy tones, clean lines and warm ambient lighting. The focus is less on opulent furnishings and more on a calm, contemporary ambience. The bathroom is also modern and well equipped.

 

The culinary part of the evening begins at 6 p.m. with an aperitif and first canapés in the lounge. This is followed by the official welcome from the ship’s management. This is a classic element of the cruise, but here it serves more as a transition to the actual program. Meanwhile, it becomes clear what the evening is all about: Sonja Baumann and Erik Scheffler from NeoBiota are present and begin to prepare the first components right in front of the guests. The preparation thus becomes part of the event and is not shifted behind the scenes. This is an approach that runs through the entire evening.

The restaurant opens at around 7 pm. From this moment on, the evening focuses entirely on the dinner. No other program items are planned; instead, the meal later turns into an open end in the lounge.

The return to Cologne takes place at night. The following morning is dedicated to breakfast and departure. A schedule that underlines the event character and clearly focuses on the culinary experience.

The YouDinner chefs: modern star cuisine from Cologne

Sonja Baumann and Erik Scheffler from NeoBiota are responsible for the culinary design of the evening. The restaurant is one of the most innovative addresses in top German gastronomy and has been awarded a Michelin star. The cuisine follows an approach that deliberately breaks away from traditional roles: the focus is on plant-based products, supplemented by selective animal components. The use of fermentation, unusual flavor combinations and a clear, often minimalist presentation are also typical of NeoBiota. This signature style also characterizes the menu on board.

A key element of the YouDinner format is the presence of the chefs in the room. Sonja Baumann and Erik Scheffler present their dishes in person and also explain the background to some of them. This form of direct communication reduces the distance between chef and guest and changes the perception of the menu.

Kick-off to YouDinner: regional and newly interpreted

The aperitif already shows how the kitchen team works. The appetizers served take up familiar dishes but interpret them in a new way. A miniature farmer’s breakfast waffle, a tartelette with wild garlic and trout from the Eifel region and a variation on “Himmel un Ääd” entitled “Armer Jan” combine regional references with a modern interpretation. This is served with a Saumur Brut, whose fresh, slightly mineral character makes it the perfect starter. The fine perlage ensures that the individual components of the appetizers are shown to their best advantage and immediately whets the appetite for more.

 

These first dishes function less as a classic starter and more as a conceptual prelude. What surprised us most at this point was the clear focus of the menu: The evening’s motto is “plant based”. A decision that you might not necessarily expect at a fine dining event on a ship, but which immediately arouses curiosity as to how this concept is implemented at star level.

The YouDinner menu: five courses with a clear line

At the center of the evening is a five-course menu called “Biota-Style & Plant-Based”. It does not follow a spectacular staging, but develops gradually in structure and intensity.

It starts with a sunflower seed paté with magnolia and Jerusalem artichoke. The course works with earthy and nutty aromas, complemented by floral notes. The composition remains restrained and focuses on balance rather than contrast. The course is accompanied by a Riesling from the Palatinate, whose freshness and precise acidity lend lightness to the dish.

In the second course, the aromas become more pronounced. Walnut and maitake are combined with cherry, sakura and a Szechuan note. Sweetness, spiciness and umami intertwine and create a multi-layered taste. The Riesling picks up on the fruity components without masking the stronger aromas.

 

The third course, kohlrabi with robinia and hops, seems reduced in comparison. Bitters and floral elements are in the foreground. This course is accompanied by a Chardonnay Réserve, whose subtle woody notes and creamy structure add depth to the fine interplay of aromas without dominating them.

The menu reaches its most striking point with the coffee beet. In combination with blueberry mole and red bitter lettuce, the result is a dish that focuses strongly on depth and contrast. The coffee provides intensity and an unexpected earthiness that is surprising at first, but works very well. The accompanying red wine is a Mencía from Galicia. It goes particularly well here, as it has enough structure without being heavy.

The dessert finally goes its own way. Pine nut yoghurt, red bean, preserved raspberries and fermented blackberry leaf. Sweetness plays only a minor role here. Instead, acidity, fermentation and nutty notes take center stage. A finish that is deliberately non-classical, but consistently matches the menu and once again clearly summarizes the style of the evening.

Our conclusion

YouDinner moves between several formats. It is not a classic restaurant visit, as the location and setting are temporary. At the same time, it differs significantly from a classic cruise, where gastronomy is only one component of a more comprehensive program.

Instead, a hybrid concept is created that combines elements of both areas and concentrates on a clearly defined period of time. The reduction to one evening, combined with the special situation on the river, leads to a form of enjoyment that differs from classic restaurant visits and is therefore a special experience. We were both impressed and fascinated by the concept. We had a wonderful short trip with a culinary event on the river, which we would repeat at any time.

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Many thanks to nicko cruises for the trip with the nickoSPIRIT. This article is not sponsored, we only report on our own impressions.